Author: Kristian Kielmayer, Ágnes Herczeg
Its origin is unknown, although it is certainly a Hungarian variety. Its old name was Izsáki Sárfehér, which it probably got from the town of Izsák in Bács-Kiskun County. The word Izsák, which refers specifically to a geographical location, had to be dropped in 2000. However, an elegant solution was found in 2006 when the grapes themselves were, so to speak, protected. This means that Arany Sárfehér produced in Izsák and the surrounding villages can use the PDO Izsáki Arany Sárfehér, as long as it complies with the product specification. Other names for the variety include Németdinka and Fehérkadarka. The latter comes from vine-dresser József Szélesi, who selected the white mutation of the otherwise black grape from a Kadarka vineyard at the end of the 19th century. This explanation has, however, already been refuted by recent research. There are also two hectares of the Sárfehér variety in Hungary today. However, this is a totally different variety, so the two should not be confused.
It has large, long rather than broad, jagged, dark green leaves with large clusters and medium-sized, thick-skinned, juicy berries. It is characterised by late budburst and ripening and is favoured for its ability to retain high acidity and may even be used to make sparkling wine. Records say that its name derives from its berries being as heavy as mud.
The variety has also proved successful in Germany, but it is most widely cultivated in Hungary, where it is grown on a total of 486 hectares, although it is essentially only found in the Kunság wine district.
The abovementioned protected origin wine, Izsáki Arany Sárfehér PDO, can only be made from the Arany Sárfehér variety. It may be made in both still and sparkling version and grapes must originate from a specific geographical area. This comprises the vineyards of Izsák and villages in the immediate vicinity, less than 400 hectares in total. The vines are mostly head-trained with short-spur pruning and planted in quartz-rich sandy soil.
The wines usually have medium to low alcohol and high, fresh acidity with rather neutral aromas and flavours. These properties also make it ideally suited for the production of sparkling wine, while its high acidity also makes it a popular component in blends.
Izsáki Arany Sárfehér PDO wines are generally pale straw in colour with discreet fruitiness, notes of quince and restrained floral tones. They may be either dry or off-dry with high acidity, light body and low alcohol. They are usually fresh, light white wines designed for early consumption.
Arany sárfehér grape bunch and leaf
Arany sárfehér is used to make wines with delicate aromatics, but lean, vibrant acidity and low alcohol, thus it is often also found as sparkling wine. Thanks to its fresh vibrancy, both still and sparkling wines made from it are typically popular during the warm, sunny months, i.e. from early spring to late autumn. Its neutral character as well as its crisp acidity work best with similar styles of food. Arany sárfehér also makes a great base for spritzers on warm summer days. Choose the latest vintage and consume as soon as possible to best enjoy its crisp, fresh style. Always store in a stool place, away from light and heat. Serve both still and sparkling wines straight from the fridge, still wines at about 8-10°C, in a tulip-shaped white wine glass, while sparkling wine is best enjoyed at 5-6°C in a flute.
Ingredients that best match the flavour and texture of wines made from Arany Sárfehér include lettuce, crunchy cucumber, potatoes, citrus fruit and young cow or goat’s cheese, chicken, grilled pork and oily white fish. You could also serve it with a broth or a garlic cream soup. As for main courses, it pairs well with grilled meat with fresh salad or chicken leg with marjoram. The wine’s neutrality will help bring out the flavours of the food, while its lively acidity will balance and cut through any fatty, hearty flavours.
