22 May 2025 / Borbála Kalmár
How did your wine career begin?
I was born in Hokkaido, where my father founded his own winery in 1963 — a time when the wine industry in Japan was still in its infancy. I grew up surrounded by wine. I studied mathematics at Tsuda University in Tokyo, then continued my education in the world of wines and spirits at Cornell University in New York. After returning home, I founded my own company, Wine & Wine Culture, in 1986 and started a wine school. My goal has always been to share the love of wine with as many people as possible and to train domestic professionals for the industry, as I had seen during my travels how essential this is for developing a wine culture. When I started, there was no wine literature in Japan, so I wrote my own book in 1994 and have been updating it annually. In 2009, I was awarded the French L’Ordre du Mérite Agricole, and in 2023, I received the higher Officier rank.
Yumi Tanabe
How does the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards relate to your journey?
I launched the competition in 2014. After more than twenty years of teaching experience, I saw that openness to wine was growing in Japan — more and more people were enrolling in courses each year. Today, the number of trained sommeliers in Japan exceeds 20,000, and half of them are women. However, I noticed a lack of networks and that women rarely held leadership roles, often limited to assistant positions. I believed it was time for change and wanted to create opportunities for women to thrive professionally.
While forums can be organized on such topics, I had doubts about their effectiveness, fearing they might be mere gatherings for venting frustrations. I had several innovative ideas, one of which led to the creation of the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards, judged solely by women. I believed that involving female sommeliers in this way would positively impact the development of the wine industry in Japan.
What message does such a competition convey?
Japanese cuisine has a unique flavor profile, and it is well known that pairing it with wine is not always easy. Due to the frequent presence of umami in our dishes, Japanese women tend to have highly developed and refined taste perception. As a result, they often prefer wines that are elegant and harmonize well with our food. When a bottle bears a “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards label, selected by a female panel familiar with our culinary culture, consumers feel more confident in their choice. This gives the award marketing power and can significantly boost sales — something we clearly see with Japanese wines. Today, award-winning wines have dedicated sections in stores, and wine fairs are organized around them. This positively affects sales, and consumers are increasingly willing to spend more on a bottle.
How has the competition evolved over the years?
We have held it 13 times, and its significance is shown by the fact that we now receive more than 4,000 entries each year.
If a lesser-known country like Hungary wanted to break into the Japanese market, what should be emphasized? The label, the story, or something else?
It’s hard to give a definitive answer. At one point, French and Italian wines were also unknown in Japan, but consistent marketing has paid off. Design and storytelling matter, but I would say the most important first step is educating the industry. This is especially true for Hungary, which is not as popular a tourist destination as France or Italy.
Wines need to be present on store shelves, which happens through industry professionals — and that requires both time and financial resources. More masterclasses targeting merchants, importers, and sommeliers are needed to raise awareness of Hungarian wines. Currently, about 30,000 liters of Hungarian wine are imported into Japan, which is only 1% of the volume of Chilean wine. Entering the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards could help; high scores attract importers' attention. Unfortunately, Hungarian participation is still low, so beyond Tokaji wines, local consumers are largely unfamiliar with Hungarian labels.
What does it take for a wine to capture the attention of Japanese consumers?
As women play a growing role in society and young people move to big cities, the hospitality industry is thriving, boosting wine consumption. Looking ahead, integrating wine into everyday life is crucial — currently, wine is mostly consumed with steak at home, not with umami-rich dishes. At the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards, we focus specifically on food pairing and even give awards in that category. Foreign entrants appreciate this, as it helps introduce their wines to local consumers.
What Japanese dishes pair well with Hungarian wines?
Stuffed cabbage, paprika-rich dishes, and stews align well with Japanese tastes. Dry Furmints, Bikavérs, and Villányi Francs can easily become part of everyday life for Japanese consumers.
What can visitors expect from the Hungary-themed programs at the Osaka Expo?
I welcome this collaboration, especially since there are many female winemakers in Hungary, which sends a strong message to Japanese women in the wine industry. We will promote Hungarian wines through the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards and other events and partnerships. We will host a roundtable with three excellent female winemakers and showcase award-winning Hungarian wines at a masterclass on the “SAKURA” Japan Women's Wine Awards in the Hungarian Pavilion. These wines will be available for tasting throughout the Wines of Hungary programs, from June 5–7.
Do you have personal memories of Hungarian wines?
Before the political changes in Hungary, the only available Tokaji Aszú was from Royal Tokaji — I vividly remember how its botrytized character moved me. Later, I discovered wines from Villány and Badacsony and tasted Bikavér wines — I’ve always loved the elegance and harmony these wines express. I especially remember how well they paired with rich, paprika-based dishes.
Further details about the program are available by clicking on the image.
Cover Picture and Photos: Yumi Tanabe, EXPO 2025 Magyarország (Hungary)
