Originality Matters: Why Distinctive Wines Win - Interview with John Szabo MS

As principal critic at WineAlign and co-host of the Wine Thieves podcast, John Szabo MS combines sharp analytical tasting with a storyteller’s sense of wonder. At BOR 2025, he returns not just to review wines, but to reconnect with Hungary’s volcanic landscapes, meet new producers, and continue advocating for originality, sustainability, and distinctiveness in the glass.

Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency: As principal critic for WineAlign and co-host of the Wine Thieves podcast, how do you plan to convey the essence of BOR 2025?

John Szabo: I’ll be publishing the reviews of all the top wines that I taste over the course of the summit for our readers in Canada and around the world. I’m also looking forward to presenting on Hungary's volcanic wines again at the summit - a subject close to my heart and which features some amazing wines.

HWMA: You’re both a critic and a buyer for the WineAlign Exchange—what characteristics do you look for when considering Hungarian wines for that program?

J. Sz.: What the WineAlign Exchange critics are looking for when selecting wines is of course an excellent quality-price-pleasure ratio. But beyond that, we often favour original, distinctive wines that our members may not be familiar with, such as local, indigenous grape varieties or blends and innovative styles - the mission is to introduce members to new things, quality wines worthy of discovery, wines they would not likely pick off of the shelves themselves without some insider information.

Sustainability (organic/biodynamic farming, responsible packaging, low carbon footprint) is also important to us. We believe in wineries who are working to have a positive impact on the environment. Finally, it’s a bonus if the wine and winery have a particularly interesting story to tell, some intriguing historical aspect, or perhaps a vision for the future. Everyone likes a good story, and it helps the wine to stand out from the crowded market.

HWMA: Can you share a particularly memorable moment or discovery you’ve had involving Hungarian wine?

J. Sz.: My first (professional) visit to Tokaj in the year 2000, and that first taste of Esszencia, made all the more memorable by being deep inside one of the region’s historic cellars, where legend has it, revolutions were planned...

HWMA: In your decades experience as a Master Sommelier and media presenter, what do you feel is the greatest opportunity—and challenge—for Hungarian wines to break through in international wine lists?

J. Sz.: There’s no magic bullet for any country or region. Quality, price and originality always win the day. And, of course, education is key. Nobody lists what they don’t know (prescribed corporate wine programs aside). Events like the Hungarian Wine Summit are extremely helpful in this regard, getting trade out into vineyards, and wines in their glass, and meeting face to face with producers. This takes time.

HWMA: Are there particular wine styles or regions you're most curious to deepen you knowledge in the Hungarian Wine Summit?

I’ve been to most regions many times over the years and I'm looking forward to catching up with familiar producers and hopefully meeting several new ones making exciting wines. During the study tours, I’m looking forward in particular to visiting Sopron as it’s been quite a white since I was there. I’m more familiar with the neighbouring Burgenland, so it will be interesting to see how producers on the Hungarian side measure up today.