Make way for Kékfrankos!

Even though you may not know it yet, this black Carpathian variety is one of the must-tastes of Hungary and Central Europe. Kékfrankos, as Blaufränkisch is called in Hungary, is the country’s most widely planted variety with nearly 7,000 hectares planted nationwide, practically everywhere except in white wine bastion Tokaj. Although Hungary boasts over double the plantings of Kékfrankos than Austrian Blaufränkisch, its western neighbour has thus far been more successful at promoting its Blaufränkisch as a quality fine wine.

Thought to have originated in Lower Styria, Kékfrankos is planted all over Central Europe with a variety of names based on ‘Blue Frankisch’ in different languages, although it is also found in Germany, in Baden-Württemberg to be precise, under the name Lemberger. Its name is thought to originate in the Middle Ages when high-quality varieties were called Fränkisch to mark their superiority over the inferior Heunisch grapes, although Hungarian urban legend says the name comes from occupying Napoleonic troops buying wine in Sopron using ‘Blue Francs’ worth more than the local currency. Hungary’s most westerly city Sopron, the former capital of the Burgenland where the majority of Austria’s Blaufränkisch can be found, has the largest swathes of Kékfrankos vines in the world, hence its nickname ‘Capital of Kékfrankos’. In centuries past, it was clearly considered to be a noble variety; its second Hungarian name, Nagyburgundi, also suggests this, as it was commonly mistaken for Pinot Noir and Gamay.

Yet, in the late-twentieth century, thanks to decades of socialist winemaking, Kékfrankos was not highly thought of. And unfortunately that attitude still persists with many Hungarians today. Featuring heavily in rosés and often produced as an everyday fruity wine, the variety still gets a bad rap even though some truly fantastic Kékfrankos is now being produced. Sopron producer Birgit Pneiszl once told me that it was really difficult to convince people to taste Soproni Kékfrankos, while I also have memories of thin and green Kékfrankos with raspy tannins from my early years in Hungary in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Soproni Kékfrankos was often the cheapest red wine on tap, and many Hungarians resorted to drinking it mixed with cola. I must admit, I never tried ‘boros kóla’, but I could see their point!

Sopron wine district

So, what has changed? Producers have started to take it more seriously and, with more restricted yields and conscientious winemaking, are turning out increasingly balanced and elegant wines from Sopron, Eger and Mátra in the north of Hungary and Szekszárd and Villány in the south. Wines boast fresh acidity and structured tannins, becoming more supple, velvety and complex with age. Bursting with crunchy red and black cherry fruit with a spicy kick, what’s not to like? Producers are also starting to dial back the oak on their top Kékfrankos. Tomasz Prange-Barczyński, Editor-in-Chief of Polish magazine Ferment agrees, saying, “I’m glad that Hungarian winemakers have realised that Kékfrankos is not a variety worth making heavy, barrel-aged, extracted wines from. Instead, we have more and more Kékfrankos that are subtle, based on fruit, yet complex and reflect the character of the terroir. These are the ones I like best.” Kékfrankos has also burst onto the northern shore of Lake Balaton in the last 5-6 years, bringing a cooler, northern Rhône character. It is particularly at home on the Tihany Peninsula’s volcanic soils, so much so that a new Tihany PDO has been created for red and rosé wines in an area traditionally better known for its white wines. So, it seems Kékfrankos has found a new home around Lake Balaton too.

Balaton wine region

As it is a good reflector of terroir, many producers are now choosing to make expressive single vineyard wines, especially in Szekszárd, which boasts the most plantings and excels at making structured yet playful wines with fresh acidity and elegance. Szekszárd are also betting on it as one of their flagship varieties, along with Kadarka and Bikavér. The latter must also have a minimum 45% backbone of Kékfrankos, while Egri Bikavér must contain 30-65%. Benefitting from a slightly cooler climate, winemakers in Sopron, Eger and Mátra are also making concentrated yet silky wines, which are balanced and fruity with aromas of violets and raspberry. Danish wine writer Thomas Bohl believes Kékfrankos “combines a fresh and fruit-forward nature with more serious structure and a rich complexity of delicate (even haunting) aromas and flavours,” commenting “it’s always interesting to taste and compare different variations from in and around Hungary”.

Szekszárd wine district

With current trends towards lighter and more elegant wines, Kékfrankos with its bright fruit and crisp acidity certainly fits the bill, especially in light of global warming, as it retains acidity even at higher temperatures. Like its white stablemate Olaszrizling, it’s also versatile, producing rosé, lighter styles and more structured, oak-influenced wines – all of which are currently sought after internationally.

Speaking to Tamlyn Currin of Jancisrobinson.com after a recent Blaufränksich workshop we both attended in Kog, Slovenia, which brought together 35 Kékfrankos, Blaufränkisch et al from 9 countries, she felt it “stands shoulder to shoulder with Cabernet Franc in terms of elegance, understated and controlled power, minerality and perfume. But it’s the blue tones to Cab Franc’s red tones, which makes it a wonderful contrast. I also think it has something of Malbec’s meatiness and violet florals, and is able to span an incredible range from transparent to muscled, like Malbec. To me, it’s a variety that could unite Cabernet Sauvignon lovers with Malbec lovers.” Given the continued popularity of both these varieties internationally, there is certainly scope for Kékfrankos to be one of Hungary’s international calling cards. And having tasted the 35 wines in Kog, the 6 Hungarian wines among them certainly held their own among those from Hungary’s neighbours. I have to admit that several were among my top scorers.

Having watched Kékfrankos morph over the last 20 years from dilute and tart to elegant and refined, I believe it is a variety with great potential. With a world of wine drinkers increasingly seeking more elegance and lightness in wines, even reds, and wine enthusiasts in search of less mainstream varieties as well as wines reflecting their origin, Kékfrankos is certainly in prime position to take advantage of these trends. It just needs to get out there and make itself better known. The wider wine world is already familiar with Blaufränkisch, now it’s the turn of Kékfrankos!