Author: dr. Gabriella Mészáros
BalatonBor is Olaszrizling under a common brand name made by producers in the Balaton region. There are producers on both the northern and southern shores participating in the initiative, which has put light summer, unoaked Balaton white wines with good acidity on a firm footing. The bottles look the same, only the producer’s name changes.
BalatonBor is now produced in all four wine districts located along the shores of Lake Balaton. The wines have a uniform appearance and must meet certain quality criteria. If we outline the unique small pyramid for quality wines produced around Lake Balaton, this category forms its foundation. And this is perhaps the most important step in this system – if and when we manage to boost its quality a little each year. The quality of the simplest wines is decisive in each wine region. Thus, an increasing number of so-called HEGYBOR, or village wines, are bottled in each viticultural town or village. Compared to the easy-to-understand, light nature of BalatonBor, which is based on acidity and fruitiness, hegybor is a greater reflection of the characteristics of this more restricted terroir. Above these – in terms of concentration, uniqueness and price – come the single-vineyard wines. Unfortunately, with a few exceptions, the outstanding vineyards around Lake Balaton have been forgotten. The lack of continuity in this area is a problem for producers. However, the Creator has not skimped on positive endowments here either.
Made from Olaszrizling, BalatonBor is an easy drinking yet substantial Balaton wine sold primarily in restaurants and in the region. BalatonBor is the first regional wine brand in Hungary based on a producer cooperation, so we can rightly say that it is “the wine of Lake Balaton”. BalatonBor is a joint product of the Balaton Circle (Balatoni Kör) and the Rizling Generation, but it can be made by anyone who meets the following conditions. In addition to the objective parameters, the quality of the product is guaranteed by a jury convened by the Balaton Circle and the Rizling Generation. Only wines that pass the tasting panel can be used to be make BalatonBor, and the results of the judging are recognised by all applicants as binding.
Olaszrizling is a very reliable variety, and it is no coincidence that it has become popular in smallholdings in Hungary too. Even with high yields and in poor, wet vintages, it is possible to make very good quality wine from this variety – not necessarily the case with all varieties. Over the last 100-120 years, excellent vineyards have been established, and the variety thrives here, especially around Lake Balaton. The wines from almost all producers boast bright acidity, liveliness and moderate aromatics.
The wines’ acidity can often even be used to flavour a particular dish. If you know that you are serving a lively wine with bright acidity, then you should adjust the dish’s seasoning, so that you can incorporate the wine’s acidity into the overall picture. Because if there is too much acidity in your mucous membranes, this can become unpleasant. With acidic wines, for example, it is a good idea to use an oil that’s slightly subdued. Pumpkin seed oil, walnut oil or oil from other oily seeds and good quality rapeseed oil can be just as good as extra virgin olive oil.
There is one place in meals where acidity is absolutely essential, and this is none other than the aperitif. Always make sure you have enough acidity in your pre-meal drink. The best aperitifs are fresh and lively, with low alcohol but plenty of acidity and fruit and are best served chilled, in small quantities, at least 10-15 minutes before the meal. Olaszrizling is undoubtedly the most widely planted grape variety in the Balaton wine districts. The best wines are made from perfectly ripe grapes, in which case their otherwise distinctive flavours are complemented by pleasant tartness, less often by salty minerality and herbal aromas and flavours. As wines in this category are exclusively dry, they also make a nice match with heavier fish dishes, cabbage dishes and dishes flavoured with sour cream. If you are lucky, you could even pair these wines with a delicious Balaton zander. Fatty flavours demand good acidity and BalatonBor can also hold its own in this case.
