Author: Kristian Kielmayer, Ágnes Herczeg
Its exact origin is unknown, although some sources consider it one of the oldest varieties in Tokaj. It almost disappeared completely after phylloxera and only received state authorisation again in the late 1990s. While others associate the variety with great certainty to Romania, where it is called Grasa de Cotnari (grasa means fat, oily) and is the region’s most important variety.
Records in Tokaj also mention it from the 16th and 17th century, with some sources differentiating between Fehérszőlő and Kövérszőlő – recent documents treat them as synonymous – thus further complicating its origins. According to old records, Fehérszőlő was not considered to shrivel much. The choice of name is likely to indicate round berries and a strong tendency to botrytise.
It is an early-budding and relatively late-ripening variety with loose clusters and round berries, which has a great affinity to botrytis and thrives on warm, volcanic soils, yet is also susceptible to fungal diseases.
Nowadays, there are less than 700 hectares cultivated, most of which can be founded in north-eastern Romania, in the Cotnari region, in the Moldovan hills. This is an extremely cool region, with an average annual temperature of 9°C, annual rainfall of 500 mm and chernozem soils. The region is known for its sweet wines and the Grasa grapes are blended with other varieties such as Tamaioasa or Muscat.
In Hungary, it is only really found in the Tokaj wine region, where it is cultivated on around 50 hectares. Although plantings have increased slightly in the region in the last decade. It most often ends up in Aszú, but a handful of producers are also experimenting with it as a monovarietal wine. Thanks to Tokaj’s volcanic soils and the climatic conditions, it is a botrytis magnet in the right vintages.
Since it is most often encountered in blends and especially in sweet wines, it is difficult to get a clear picture of the variety itself. According to tasting notes, it is generally dominated by notes of ripe fruit. As a sweet wine, it is characterised by honey, hazelnut, dried apricot and propolis; however, these are more indicative of botrytis than the variety. The variety may even constitute up to 10-20% of an Aszú blend.
Kövérszőlő grape bunch and leaf
Wines made from Kövérszőlő in Hungary are found almost exclusively in Tokaj. They are most often used to make late-harvested wines and Aszú. It is generally used in blends with Hárslevelű and Furmint, with around 10-20% used in the case of Aszú. Kövérszőlő is rarely found alone or even as a dry monovarietal wine; there are only a few wineries who are experimenting with it. The variety is very prone to botrytisation and raisining, so can also be found as a sweet wine.
Wines and blends made from late-harvested wines boast pure fruity notes as well as flavours of honey, hazelnut and propolis. So, depending on sugar content, they work well with light fruit salads, fruity desserts, cream pots, hazelnut tart or even a vanilla slice. These wines are best served chilled at 8-10°C in a small tulip-shaped white wine glass or a dessert wine glass.
The unique flavours of Aszú and Essencia mean that they can be a dish in their own right, and it is increasingly fashionable nowadays to serve a glass of Aszú instead of dessert. They can open up infinite, intriguing new dimensions when combined with a variety of savoury and sweet dishes. Classic pairings are goose liver, Roquefort cheese, desserts with honey and walnuts and Gundel pancakes. However, feel free to experiment as they can work well even with the most extreme of dishes. Serve both Aszú and Essencia chilled at 6-8°C.
