Author: Kristian Kielmayer, Ágnes Herczeg
It is native to the northern Rhône Valley and, according to some research, is closely related to Syrah. Some narratives link the variety’s history with Emperor Probus, but to the best of our knowledge, this mostly remains a legend. Based on some sources, it had almost completely disappeared from the vineyard map as it had been so relegated to the background. However, the variety is now experiencing a kind of renaissance. It is aromatic yet not exaggerated, as well as boasting elegant floral notes, creamy texture and full body.
It is characterised by early budburst and medium-early ripening, and has long, dense clusters and small but thick-skinned berries. It is a good sugar pump, although this may often be at the expense of acidity.
Outside its southern French home of the northern Rhône and Condrieu, it is also found in large areas of Languedoc-Roussillon as well as in Italy. It is also increasingly found in the United States, in California, and other New World wine-producing regions.
Viognier is a permitted variety in Hungary and is grown on approximately 15 hectares, unlike neighbouring Austria, where it is found, but the variety may not be mentioned on the label. It can be found in a handful of Hungarian regions, primarily in the Etyek-Buda, Eger and Szekszárd wine districts. Initial experiments with the variety are connected to the name of Tibor Gál. It can be found both as a monovarietal wine and in blends such as Egri Csillag.
It is undoubtably an aromatic variety thanks to its monoterpenes. However, it does not deliver an overdose of Muscat notes but is rather dominated by peach blossom and the fleshiness and fragrant fruitiness of apricots. It is characterised by an oily texture, pronounced alcohol, full body and moderate acidity. Its delicate spiciness adds further nuance to its complexity and high quality. However, they are not generally wines to be laid down.
Viognier grape bunch and leaf
Viognier wines are characterised by elegant floral and apricot flavours. It is a full-bodied, oily wine which often has high alcohol, so is pleasant in cooler weather, and even in winter. It can therefore be paired with similarly rich, even hearty dishes and also complements relatively spicy food. Soups with coconut milk, sweet potato curry, creamy, rich cheeses, root vegetables and various prawn dishes also pair well with Viognier. It also works well with ginger and saffron dishes, making it the perfect choice for a seafood paella. It is particularly enticing when matched with coriander and sage but can also be combined with sweet spices.
Although Viogner is usually full-bodied and rich, it is most appealing when young and generally not well-suited to long bottle maturation. So, it’s best to choose a younger vintage and drink it relatively quickly. Always store in a cool place, away from sunlight and heat, to best preserve its floral aromas. Serve straight from the fridge at about 8-10°C in a tulip-shaped white wine glass. If the wine has seen some oak ageing, serve a little warmer at about 10-12°C in a wider-bowled glass.
