31 October 2024 / Ádám Geri
You made a 3-day trip to Tokaj in September 2024. What were your general impressions of the region? After a deep dive into the Aszú making process, do you agree that Tokaj is unique?
I was very impressed when I arrived in Tokaj and saw a region that has so much tradition and so much to look back on. Most of the winemakers are really focused on the future, producing great wine in that region and exploring the vineyards in more detail. I think the region is truly unique and the wine styles, especially the Aszús, are something very special.
Why do you think Sauternes sweet wines and Austrian TBA are still more successful (more highly appreciated) than Tokaji Aszú?
I am not sure that this is the case. Sauternes is also struggling right now, with many wineries in the region going through very difficult times. Austrian TBA is, however, quite successful because it is a special wine style that is produced in small quantities and the price is, however, reasonably low. That certainly helps. I don’t think that Tokaji Aszú is not appreciated. It is more a matter of its availability on the market; therefore, I think there just needs to be more communication about the fact that this is a very unique wine style that you can’t get anywhere else.
In Tokaj, you were shooting a video for your YouTube channel, which has more than 160k subscribers. As an influencer, how would you try to appeal to Gen Z and Millennials when it comes to Tokaji Aszú?
I think that is actually quite tricky since sweet wines are not necessarily what Millennials and Gen Z are looking for. The key here is again tasting and understanding. Therefore, I would really try to show Gen Z and Millennials how they can integrate Tokaji Aszú into their lifestyle and how it improves a meal they eat in a restaurant. I think food and wine pairings are actually the real key and most sweet wine producers are not using that enough to promote their wines, although sweet wines can be delicious with food. Of course, the low alcohol of these wines is also something that you can focus on because alcohol is increasingly regarded as an issue by those generations, so having wines with low alcohol might be quite appealing.
What could be the most efficient message about Tokaj and Tokaji Aszú and the best target group? What are less efficient messages we should avoid?
I would really focus on sommeliers and get them to understand the benefits of Tokaji Aszú and the richness that is on offer when it comes to both dry and sweet Tokaji wines. I would really talk about the special styles of those wines. The way Aszú is made is especially unique, sommeliers are always looking for stories they can tell and Tokaj really fits the bill here. The least efficient message for me personally is probably just the fact that Tokaji was highly regarded in the past. Wine lovers want to hear more about the current state of the industry rather than what it was like in the past. Other regions and countries also talk about the fact that their wine was once called the wine of kings so that does not really help convince people to drink it.
During your visit, I’m sure you tasted Tokaji dry wines and sparkling wines as well as Aszú. Which one of the three categories do you think may have the best chance of making an international breakthrough?
Tokaji dry white wines are really interesting and different and could be something that wine aficionados around the world are seeking. I would focus on that more than on sparkling wines, to be honest. There is also demand for sparkling wines, but it is a very competitive segment and I don’t really think that Tokaji sparkling wines have the greatest chance of success when you look at all the other regions already focusing on sparkling wines.
Local and regional grape varieties are permitted in Tokaj. Should the region also allow international grapes to improve its opportunities on international markets?
I think it is good to focus on what makes you unique. Producing another Pinot Noir or Chardonnay would not make the region stand out. Nowadays, it is very important to focus on what sets you apart. All regions should emphasise the uniqueness of their regions, wine styles and grape varieties.
How successful do you feel Tokaji Aszú currently is on the German and international market?
The wines are not available enough and not talked about enough. I would definitely want to see more hype about Tokaj. This could be done by promoting it to different sommeliers and at various masterclasses showing what Tokaji Aszú is about, how it is made and what makes it special. These could be masterclasses at ProWein and other international trade fairs in order to really highlight the uniqueness of the region and the wine style. Tokaji Aszú has a very spectacular winemaking process, so video content made in collaboration with content creators would be really useful. There is a lot to see when it comes to Tokaji Aszú - looking at the shrivelled berries, the way they are picked one by one, the old cellars covered in mould, etc. All that is very visual and interesting to see. I would also lean on the fact that Tokaji Aszú is a very visual product that looks very different, and that can be communicated really well on social media.
