Author: Kristian Kielmayer, Ágnes Herczeg
The variety was produced in Badacsony in 1957. It is associated with the name of Ferenc Király, who created it by crossing Pinot Gris and Budai Zöld. The variety is thus integrally linked to the Badacsony wine district. It was recognised by the state in December 2003.
It has medium-sized, round leaves and relatively short clusters with densely packed berries. It is a high-yielding variety, which was initially named Badacsony 38. Vulcanus was the god of fire and volcanoes in Roman mythology, who also made the gods’ weapons.
It is found almost exclusively in Badacsony. Of the 5 hectares cultivated, 4.5 are in the Badacsony wine district, with small amounts also planted in the Kunság and Balaton Highlands wine districts.
It thrives especially on basalt and clay soils and is a good reflector of the terroir and climate of the region where it’s grown. It is a relatively neutral variety, thus enabling it to perfectly showcase vineyard character.
When made as a dry wine, it is generally characterised by leanness and high acidity, while this high acidity and its neutral nature also make it ideal as a sparkling base wine.
Given that only relatively small amounts of wine are made from it, and it is essentially only found in the Badacsony wine district, it is not easy to characterise wines made from the variety. However, it is generally lemon yellow or greenish yellow in colour when young and boasts fresh, neutral, slightly herbal, citrus notes. It is defined by crisp acidity, mineral, earthy and wet stone notes as well as delicate fruitiness.
Vulcanus grape bunch and leaf
Vulcanus is a very rare variety, which is officially only grown on 5 hectares in Hungary, so it is rarely encountered. It is a wine with restrained notes of herbs and chiselled acidity. Its crisp, citrus character make it a great food wine, with dry wines complementing salads, vegetable dishes, vegetable stews, full-fat cheeses and creamy meat dishes. However, it is also a popular ingredient in sparkling wines thanks to its neutral character and high acidity. Relatively little is known about its ageing potential, but its freshness means it’s best consumed when young, preferably from the last vintage. Always store in a cool place, away from direct sunlight and heat, to best preserve its aromas. Serve straight from the fridge at about 8-10°C in a tulip-shaped white wine glass. Ingredients that best match the flavour and texture of wines made from Vulcanus include lettuce, fennel, legumes, citrus fruit, root vegetables, young, light goat and cow’s cheeses, fresh herbs, poultry, white fish and light pork dishes. It would, for example, be perfect with a crisp green salad with citrus dressing and grilled gomolya cheese, a vitamin-packed spring salad or baked pikeperch fillet with roast vegetables. It is particularly delicious with delicately spiced cream soups or fresh spring vegetable soups.
