25 February 2022 / Sue Tolson
Hungary has 22 wine districts, gathered under the umbrellas of 6 wine regions, and a huge variety of wine styles. Its historically most famous wine districts are Tokaj Wine District, Eger Wine District and Nagy-Somló Wine District. However, wine is produced in much of the country. Villány Wine District, the most southerly district, produces full-bodied reds, mostly from Bordeaux varieties and is making a name for itself with its Cabernet Franc, while Szekszárd Wine District, slightly further to the north, produces elegant reds, especially Kékfrankos, Kadarka and Bikavér. Lovers of volcanic whites not only have Tokaj and Somló to choose from, but also distinctive wines from the basalt soils of Badacsony and the Balaton-Highlands (Balaton-felvidék) on the lake’s northern shores.
Hungary’s most well-known wine region, located in the northeast of the country, is Tokaj. It is famed for its sweet Aszú wines produced from botrytised grapes. In good vintages, noble rot, or botrytis cinerea, attacks healthy berries and sucks out their moisture, concentrating their flavours, sugar and acidity. A good harvest of these shrivelled, raisin-like berries results in the deliciously luscious Aszú. Although it’s incredibly sweet, upwards of 120g/l residual sugar for 5 puttonyos wines and 150 g/l for 6 puttonyos wines, Furmint’s high acidity ensures that the wines always have a refreshing finish.
Tokaj’s centuries-old winemaking heritage is so important that it is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a Historic Cultural Landscape. Not only does it boast unique built heritage – long twisting cellars carved into the soft volcanic rock and covered with black mould - yes, black mould, which helps maintain the cool humid environment for ageing the wines – along with characteristic small entrances which often make you think you have stumbled into Hobbit-land. Moreover, it was the second demarcated wine region in the world (1757) after Chianti and boasts the oldest vineyard classification system based on quality, begun in the 1730s, long before that of Bordeaux. By the end of the century, 173 of its vineyards had been classified as primate classis or secunde classis.
Tokaj boasts an even sweeter wine than Aszú, known as Tokaji Eszencia, which really must be the sweetest wine known to man, and with the lowest alcohol too! It contains so much sugar that it takes years to ferment and rarely exceeds 3 g/l residual sugar when it finally finishes fermenting – the yeasts don’t stand a chance with all that sugar. Made from the free run syrupy juice that slowly oozes out of the dried aszú berries as they wait to be turned into liquid gold Aszú. Best enjoyed on a spoon, perhaps in lieu of dessert.
Hungary’s most popular red blend is Bikavér. This translates as Bull’s Blood, by which name it was often sold abroad in the past. Legend has it that Egri Bikavér, the name of the blend produced in Eger, originated in 1552 when the town’s castle was under siege by the Turks. The castle’s defenders, thinking all was lost, drank all the wine in the cellar to give themselves some Dutch courage, which succeeded. The attackers thought they had been drinking bull’s blood as they fought so courageously, with red wine dripping down their beards, so they beat their retreat. However, southerly region Szekszárd also lays claim to the name of Bikavér, which they use for their distinctive red blend. Whoever is right, this Kékfrankos-based red blend makes some of Hungary’s best red wines.
Most Hungarian wine is sold with the variety’s name on the label. And although you can find international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, most wines are made from local Carpathian Basin grapes, many of which are also grown in other Central European countries. The most planted grape overall and the most popular black variety is Kékfrankos, also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria. This lovely spicy, cherry-scented variety produces wines in its own name but also forms the backbone of Bikavér. Although more white grapes are cultivated (nearly 70%), the picture is less clear. Furmint, Olaszrizling (aka Welschriesling) and easy-drinking, unpronounceable, aromatic Hungarian crossing Cserszegi Fűszeres vie for first place.
Hungary boasts a wide range of unique grape varieties. Some, like Kadarka, can also be found in nearby countries, but many others are characteristically Hungarian. Lovers of fiery white wines should seek out Juhfark from Somló or Kéknyelű from Badacsony – try and taste one from an older vintage, when these varieties really begin to shine. Ezerjó makes a refreshing, zippy, citrusy white in the Mór Wine District, while if you like aromatic, floral wines like Muscat, you should really try Hungarian crossings like Irsai Olivér and Cserszegi Fűszeres. If light reds are your thing, then you should look out for Csókaszőlő, once widely planted and now being rediscovered by enterprising winemakers. Or keep an eye out for unusually aromatic, deeply coloured red Turán from the Mátra or Eger.
Pink wines are just as trendy in Hungary as elsewhere. You can find rosé in all shades from pale Provencal style to deep pink as well as a special wine called Siller, a kind of mix between a dark rosé and a light red, which often has a bit of tannic grip from longer skin contact. One variant of this is Fuxli from Szekszárd. Rosés are often made from Kékfrankos or a blend containing it, but you can also find Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot versions. You may even come across rosés made from the Neró variety, which offers perfumed aromatics. And of course, rosé is also perfect in that Hungarian summer classic, the spritzer, or fröccs.
Hungary was once second only to Champagne in sparkling wine production, with its pezsgő exported far and wide. One of its most famous brands, Törley, was already established in the 19th century in Budafok on the outskirts of Budapest and is still in operation today. And like in many other countries, Hungarian fizz is experiencing a renaissance. It’s complicated though, as it comes under different names – pezsgő, habzó and gyöngyöző. Pezsgő is the real deal, as its bubbles are derived naturally from sugar and yeast, while the latter two have their bubbles added artificially, with gyöngyöző having lower pressure, more like a frizzante. Buda-Etyek is nowadays the hub of sparkling wine production, but producers all around the country are now producing bubbles, even in Tokaj.
And finally Hungary boasts an incredibly vibrant wine scene, with people of all ages enjoying its range of styles. Its capital Budapest not only benefits from dozens of great wine bars, many of which have regular tasting events, but also plenty of tastings, both large and small, throughout the year. There are wine shows and festivals galore, not only in Budapest but all over the country, especially in its wine regions. Not a week goes by without there being a wine event somewhere for you to discover the diversity of Hungarian wine.
