13 March 2025 / Vera Szűcs-Balás
You visited Hungary a few years ago on a study tour organized by Wines of Hungary. What were your impressions of Hungarian wines at the time? Have you noticed any evolution or growing international awareness of Hungarian wines since your last visit?
That trip was the first time I really explored the diversity of Hungarian wines. Before that, I had hardly heard of Szekszárd, and I knew very little about Villány. I had no idea what to expect. Some things really blew me away, like Mount Somló, which is just incredible — you can immediately feel that it's a special region. I was also surprised by the diversity of Tokaj, which I hadn't anticipated. In today’s masterclass, I was really impressed by how far the wines have evolved. The Szekszárd wine we tasted — a Porkoláb Kékfrankos — was very modern and crunchy, full of fruit, and really expressive of the region. That was particularly interesting because, when I last visited, I didn’t come across many wines in that style. I’d love to go back and taste more of these wines, especially from Eger, because the last time I was there, many of the wines had a heavier, more traditional, classic style. Maybe now, winemakers are leaning more towards a fruity, vibrant approach.
Fongyee Walker MW
Are there any Hungarian wine styles or grape varieties that particularly impressed you?
I have a soft spot for Juhfark — it's easy to remember, and I love talking about the slopes of Somló, comparing them to the hills of Corton in Burgundy. I’d also love to return and explore more wines from Lake Balaton. The region is incredibly diverse, and there are so many different terroirs — I'd really like to get a deeper understanding of them. Another memorable experience was visiting Bolyki Winery, just outside Eger, in an old quarry. That producer was doing some really cool, innovative stuff.
Do you think Hungary has a unique story to tell in the global wine world? If so, what makes it stand out?
Many countries have the potential to stand out, but one of the biggest challenges for Hungarian wine is that it's still relatively unknown. Some of Hungary’s grape varieties and regions have fantastic stories behind them, and I believe Hungary should incorporate more cultural elements into its wine marketing. For example, I would love to start a masterclass by playing Hungarian music — just to give people a sense of what Hungary is really like. That’s why French wines sell so well — not because they necessarily taste better (I don’t think they do), but because when people see a bottle of French wine, they associate it with châteaux, sophistication, and elegance. It’s not that they’re in love with the taste of cheap Bordeaux Merlot — it’s about the feeling and identity that come with it. Look at Italy — Italian wines have grown in popularity because people associate them with fun, food, and passion. Why couldn’t Hungary do the same?
From your experience, how do Asian consumers perceive Hungarian wines?
I hate to say it, but awareness is close to zero. When people think of Hungarian wine, they think only of Tokaj, because the WSET curriculum (which most Asian wine students follow) only includes Tokaj. So there’s a huge amount of work to be done. The problem is that many people’s entire knowledge of Hungarian wine is shaped by WSET, and we all know that Hungary is much more than Tokaj. Another challenge is that people don’t see Hungary as a travel destination. They don’t associate it with gastronomy, even though it’s a hugely food-focused country. Hungary should leverage its unique experiences — for example, thermal baths. Chinese people love hot springs — many even plan vacations around them. When I visited Budapest, I wasn’t there for wine — I went to hear concerts, see the cathedral, walk along Fisherman’s Bastion, and ride one of Europe’s oldest metro lines. And even though that trip was in 1993, I still remember it vividly! That just shows how much potential Hungary has to excite people.
What advice would you give to Hungarian winemakers who want to enter the Chinese market?
Take it slow. Work with importers who truly want to sell to wine lovers. Don’t expect to move large volumes overnight. The Chinese consumers who buy wine regularly (weekly or bi-weekly) are interested in wine, but they have the entire world to choose from. So it’s crucial to have a clear message about what your winery represents. Interesting stories help — even if it’s about Mangalica pigs or Hungarian dog breeds! Anything that helps an importer communicate the story behind your wines will be beneficial.
Which Hungarian wines or styles do you think have the most potential in Asia?
First of all, I’d love to do a blind tasting comparing dry Furmint from single vineyards and mineral-driven Balaton whites against the best German Rieslings and Chablis. That would really open people’s eyes. And the reds! A student in my class said he didn’t like Cabernet Franc — then he tasted a Villányi Franc and said, "This is fantastic! It’s totally different from what I expected." It would be interesting to compare Villányi Franc with Loire Cabernet Franc, because that’s the reference point most people have. I think a lot of Chinese consumers would actually prefer the Hungarian style if they had the chance to try it.
What role do storytelling, branding, and critical acclaim play in elevating lesser-known wine regions like Hungary?
It’s critical. You need high-profile endorsements from global wine experts — it doesn’t really matter who, but you need to proudly showcase Hungarian wines that score high marks. For example, I just tasted a Szepsy wine that I would easily score 95+ points — it was a stunning white wine. If more Hungarian wines got recognition at that level, people would start seeing them as collectible.Also, Tokaj needs to emphasize its ageability. The big revival of Tokaj happened in the 1990s, and many wine lovers today were born in the 90s. They’d love to buy wines from their birth year — it’s a huge opportunity!
How does Hungary compare in terms of quality and innovation?
I think you’d be pleasantly surprised in a blind tasting. Hungary is producing some of the best Olaszrizlings in the world, and dry Furmint can absolutely compete on the global stage. You just need to codify your single-vineyard classification and start talking about Tokaj’s crus.
What about the fact that many Hungarian grape names are hard to pronounce?
In China, the key is to find a good Chinese name — pronunciation doesn’t matter as long as the name resonates. Take Hárslevelű — its Chinese name (Putiyeh, meaning linden leaf) is easy to remember and has a beautiful meaning. It’s actually one of the prettiest grape names I’ve ever come across!
Oh, I can’t, I can’t. It’s too difficult! Wine is about what you like to eat and what you like to drink — it’s so personal. But I would love the day when we can get some Mangalica pork into China and give it to some Chinese chefs to make Hong-shao-rou — a rich, braised pork belly dish. That would be so cool. I could definitely pair that with a Szekszárd Kékfrankos, while my husband [Ed. note: Master of Wine Edward Ragg] would probably go for Villányi Franc.It would also be really fun to pair sweet wines with spicy food — I can still imagine that working beautifully. The challenge is that, although people love sweet wine, they don’t buy it. It’s the same in many places around the world: if you open a bottle of Tokaj sweet wine at dinner, everyone says, "Oh wow, this is delicious!" — but they wouldn’t necessarily purchase it themselves. Sweet wines just don’t get enough respect — they’re not part of the current trend, and that’s a real challenge. But during the masterclass, I made a point: I said, "The most famous sweet wine in the world is…", then I hesitated — should I say one of the most famous? — and then I thought, no, it really is the most famous.
Photos: Nimbility/Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency
