11 February 2022 / Stella Bánlaki
Anyone who has been to Szent György Hill, away from the hustle and bustle of the Balaton shore, knows that it has special power. The views are unrivalled and the volcanic buttes, or witness hills as they are known in Hungarian, resonate with every cell in your body.
This is especially true at the Bencze Estate, where lovers of natural wine will feel even more at home, as the wines are made in the most ancient, natural way possible, yet using a modern approach.
It is clearly signposted at the start of the road to Szent György Hill, and the winery has several guests houses for rent. It is a real mini Hungarian agriturismo: you wake up amongst the vines, taste local delicacies and, if you feel like it, can peek into the daily workings of the winery. Romantic walks on the hillside, dinner in one of the nearby restaurants and a great coffee in Badacsony – this could most definitely be the basis of an unforgettable Valentine’s Day weekend. If you want, you don’t even have to come down off the hill, as you can book tastings at several wineries even in the winter, consider the Szászi Vineyard, just a short distance away, or Gilvesy Winery, a little further down the road.
Part of a guest room on the estate.
This ultra-modern building, unlike anything else in Hungary at the time, which opened under the name Ax & Ax, is something many people will remember. Photos of it were all over the press: the hotel building has a wine lift, a wine cellar, a black box room and a restaurant with running sushi. Since then, the estate has changed ownership and concept, and Kristinus is now increasingly promoting its focus on proximity to nature, a bold and exemplary decision considering the estate’s size. Its concept includes biodynamic cultivation, i.e. a much more rigorous cultivation and winemaking process than organic farming. As well as making wine, they now also keep livestock and grow vegetables in the same spirit, to supply the estate’s restaurant. If you are seeking a romantic rendezvous with long walks and wine tasting, with the Somogy Hills as a perfect backdrop, you’ll find what you are looking for here.
If Tokaj is the crown of all Hungarian wine regions, then Mád is the certainly the crown jewel. Eighteenth-century Hungarian noblemen knew this, and the Barta Winery was once the home of Julianna Rákóczi and her husband, Count Ferdinand Aspremont Gobert. Nowadays, it is home to the wonderful Barta Winery, and has been renovated with a Baroque touch, but with excellent taste, and is for adults only. So, you won’t find any early-morning children’s caterwauling, but you can expect some of the country’s top wines, picnic-style vineyard tours, a hearty country breakfast and special cigars. And, of course, feeling a little like a count and a countess.
Part of a beautiful guest room of Barta Winery.
Facial and body treatments based on organic Villány grapes, various saunas, a salt room and wine-based cocktails at the edge of a warm pool? Dinner at one of the best restaurants in the wine region? And in the common areas, a member of the Gere family might even pop up with a unique wine that is no longer available commercially. Everyone has already come across the wines from the Gere Attila Winery, but it’s also worth visiting them in person. It’s worth it for those who haven’t been there before, while it’s worth it for those who have, as they surely want to return there. And there is plenty to do here, especially connected to wine. Just think of the cellar row in Villány, which is delightful, even in winter.
Body treatments based on cosmetics containing grape seeds, skins and extracts.
In 2019, it was awarded the title of Hungary’s Most Beautiful Estate, but this estate boasts much more. Its wines, which are certified organic, also perform well in international competitions. They own one of the wonders of Tokaj, which is striking from afar, the Theresa Chapel, built in 1750 and renovated by the Count Degenfeld family in 2015. Their restaurant is worthy of this monarchy-style palace and rivals its competition in the capital, Budapest. The estate’s package includes a candlelit dinner, a bouquet of red roses and chocolate and champagne in your room.
The Neszmélyi wine district is the smallest in the country, but it is all the more unique because its proximity to the Danube provides the grapes ripening here with an unparalleled microclimate. You can view all this in comfort from the panoramic rooms of the Hilltop Neszmély Winery, as you can even see the Danube and the vineyards from the bed. Moreover, if you’re here to woo February’s big day with light wines and modern cuisine, you don’t even have to leave your dog at home, as they are welcome too. (The article’s opening image shows part of the Hilltop Neszmély Winery)
Romantic breakfast with view.
Restaurant, accommodation, wellness and one of the finest wine cellars in the country. You can even rent luxury rooms in the Takler family’s Gothic-style mansion, yet stay close to the vineyards too, as the estate is located on Decsi Hill in Szekszárd. A vineyard tour, wine tasting, dinner, spa and massage, your Valentine’s weekend can be active, but you could also just snuggle up in a suite, or gaze at the wine district from your terrace.
The Takler Mansion (Photo: Olivér Trábert Videography).
